Every year, on 23 April, Catalonia celebrates the Diada de Sant Jordi, one of the most beloved festivals in the region. The streets fill with stalls selling books and roses, creating a unique atmosphere. The tradition comes from the legend of Sant Jordi (Saint George), the knight who slew a dragon to save a princess. According to the story, a red rose blossomed from the dragon's blood, which is why roses have become the symbol of the festival. In the past, men would give a rose to women and women would give a book to men. Today, anyone can give both books and roses to the people they love.
There is a version of Catalonia that most travellers never look for, or perhaps simply never find.
They arrive in Barcelona for a few days, visit the Sagrada Família, the Rambla, eat a paella — often in the wrong place — and leave convinced they have seen Spain. In reality, Catalonia is so much more than this.
It is a region with an identity so strong and deep-rooted that it does not always recognise itself in the word "Spain". Here people speak Catalan, think in Catalan, live in Catalan.
The Catalan question is one of the most complex and deeply felt in Europe, and to truly understand it you need to take a step back into history.
Catalonia has had its own language, culture and identity for centuries, long before the birth of modern Spain. For a long time it enjoyed strong autonomy, until 1714, when, after the War of the Spanish Succession, Barcelona fell under Bourbon control and Catalonia lost its historical privileges. The 11th of September 1714 is still celebrated today as the Diada, Catalonia's national day: not a celebration of victory, but the memory of a defeat never forgotten.
In the twentieth century the situation worsened further. During the Francoist dictatorship, from 1939 to 1975, Catalan was banned in public, in schools and in newspapers. Speaking one's own language became an act of resistance. This repression left a deep wound, one that has not been completely healed to this day.
With the return of democracy, Catalonia regained autonomy and the right to use and teach its own language. But the tension never fully disappeared. In 2017 it erupted again with the referendum for independence, declared illegal by Madrid. Images of the police trying to prevent the vote from taking place went around the world, opening a political crisis that remains unresolved to this day.
Today the situation is more stable, but the debate remains open: many Catalans feel like a nation within a state that does not fully represent them, while others believe in the unity of Spain.
I had the opportunity to experience this reality first hand, spending two months in Catalonia as a volunteer in a school. In exchange I received board and lodging with a local family, with whom I still have a close bond to this day. If you are interested in living a similar experience, you can book a free call to find out how to organise that kind of trip.
The place where I lived was Viladecans, a small town a few kilometres from Barcelona, unknown to most and for that very reason it has stayed in my heart. It had no particular attractions or famous monuments, but it had something impossible to forget: the smell of chocolate that came from the local factory every morning as I walked to the station.
That station was my daily starting point. In a few minutes I was in Barcelona; in a few more, along the coast or in little towns I did not even know existed.
I lived with a family that helped me understand how different cultures can be, even within the same country. She was Catalan, he was Andalusian. On one side the pride, the reserve and the Catalan traditions; on the other the warm energy and generosity of Andalusia.
Thanks to them I also discovered the local cuisine, so simple and authentic.
Pa amb tomàquet was born from the simplicity of Catalan country life. To make stale bread more tasty, people began rubbing it with ripe tomato, olive oil and salt. A gesture born of necessity, which over time became one of the most recognisable staples of the Catalan table.
Escalivada, on the other hand, speaks of the slow, rural cooking of the Mediterranean. The vegetables are cooked directly on the embers until they become soft and smoky, then dressed with olive oil. It is a dish that speaks of fire, seasons and an essential cuisine rooted in the land.
Fideuà has a more recent and almost accidental history. It originated in the Gandía area, when in a seafood kitchen rice was replaced with small pasta vermicelli to make do with what was available. From that experiment was born a dish that is iconic today along the entire coast.
Crema catalana is the dessert of homes and celebrations. Fragrant with citrus and cinnamon, with its caramelised surface that breaks with a spoon, it has been part of the Catalan tradition for centuries and represents one of the most recognisable desserts in the region.
Along the coast you find towns that existed long before Barcelona was even a Roman village. Each one with its own story.
Castelldefels, a few minutes from the capital, is a seaside town dominated by a medieval castle built in the tenth century as a defence tower. Today it overlooks a long, peaceful beach and retains a relaxed atmosphere.
Sitges is one of the most remarkable towns in Catalonia: white, luminous, overlooking the sea. Between the late nineteenth century and the twentieth century it became a centre of Catalan modernism, attracting artists and intellectuals from across Europe. Today it is known for its cultural openness and for one of the most vibrant carnivals in Spain.
Girona is one of the most fascinating and underrated cities in the region. The medieval centre, the Jewish quarter — one of the best preserved in Europe — and the colourful houses along the Onyar river make it unique. Every May, during Temps de Flors, the city is transformed: courtyards, staircases and alleyways fill with floral installations and are opened to the public for a week.
Tarragona is, quite literally, Rome in Catalonia. The ancient capital of Roman Hispania, it still preserves amphitheatres, aqueducts and remains of the Empire that blend seamlessly with the modern city. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and overlooks the sea with a surprising harmony between different eras.
Cadaqués, isolated between the mountains and the sea, remained cut off from the rest of the region for centuries. The white houses, narrow alleys and slow pace of life make it one of the most authentic places in Catalonia. Salvador Dalí chose it as his home, and many artists have found their inspiration here.
Barcelona remains a city I love deeply, but its true value is discovered only when you go beyond its borders.
If you want to build a trip in Catalonia, in Barcelona or off the most touristy routes, you can book a free 15-minute call to work out together how to create your tailor-made itinerary.